Building a Smile: Carnevale, Fiesole, & Fashion

Besides my brief encounters with locals at stores and cafes, I haven’t had much interaction with Italian culture. I am living here, but I’ve been waiting for that moment when I feel out of place or witness something so unusual that it makes me really stop and take notice of the cultural differences. I finally felt like I experienced that when I attended Carnevale in Viareggio, Italy on Sunday (Feb. 12th).

Carnevale is basically the Italian version of Halloween mixed with a Mardi Gras-like parade. Everyone is dressed in elaborate costumes, some of which have themes. Others just wear intricately decorated, colorful masks – which is what I did. I was so stoked to wear my silver sequin mask, unfortunately it wasn’t very flattering. Haha

Before the carnival parade began I spent a little time wandering the beach nearby. It was funny seeing everyone running around the sand wearing their masks. It was also odd wearing full winter attire on the beach. I realized I had never been on a beach in cold weather, nor had I ever been to a beach that wasn’t on the Gulf of Mexico. Viareggio beaches are beautiful: Clean water and sand with a backdrop of snow covered mountains. But I hear they’re nothing compared to Sicily or the Amalfi Coast. Hopefully, when it warms up, I’ll see for myself!


The parade was like none other I had experienced before. All of the floats were gigantic artistic masterpieces portraying a political message – almost all dealing with former Prime Minister Berlusconi. Some were pretty provocative, leading me to wonder if anything like that would be allowed in a states parade. Probably not…along with the masses of tweens and teens drinking and smoking. I couldn’t get past how weird that was. Nevertheless, when Italians come together to celebrate, they really know how to enjoy themselves and have a good time!


The following week was fabulous and fashion-filled. One day for my History of Italian Fashion class we visited the Scuola del Cuoio, not too far from my apartment and the Santa Croce church. It’s a school and workshop where some of Florence’s finest leather goods are made by hand. One of the artisans demonstrated an old renaissance technique of applying gold leaf texture to a piece of leather. The design was intricate and unique to the artist, making every piece special. People such as Princess Diana, Audrey Hepburn, and Gwyneth Paltrow owned leather goods from the school. It was surreal thinking they had walked the same hall that I was standing in.


For the next class meeting we had another field trip, this time to Pitti Palace, which houses multiple museums. It’s always such a task getting to class in the morning, especially when we have an onsite meeting. And of course the days I’m running late is when I have to climb huge hills and navigate confusing streets. Once I reach the destination though, panting and perspiring, it’s always so worth it.

Pitti Palace came into view as I sped-walk past shops and cafes that lined the street. It was so massive; I couldn’t believe I hadn’t spotted it from afar – or that I hadn’t been to this place yet! My ultimate idea of Europe is enchanting palaces and castles, and finally I was standing at the entrance of one! The palace was bought by the Medici family in the 1500s and was the main residence for the ruling family, as well as the place of reception for other world rulers visiting Florence.

We visited the costume gallery which includes in its impressive collection the garments of a few members of the Medici family. And not just any garments – the clothes they were buried in. So someone had a lot of work collecting the shreds and pieces of fabric that remained. I thought it was weird that they dug up the bodies of some of Italy’s most famous historic figures and took their clothes. But it was pretty amazing seeing it in person. Other costumes on display were dresses ranging from the 1700s to modern day – including some of Italy’s best known designers who made dresses inspired by the ancient costumes.

In my Fashion Marketing & Merchandising class we also had a field trip to the Salvatore Ferragamo museum. I was really excited to learn more about a designer I was only familiar with by looking at ads in Vogue. The museum housed tons of original designs by Ferragamo, including the clear wedge shoe that won him the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. In just this one visit my love for fashion and admiration of designers grew – in leaps! Ferragamo began making shoes at age nine, and nothing ever set him back from his dream. Even during financial crisis when supplies were limited he used his creativity to create from what was available. We saw some of these products of creativity in the form of shoes made from fish skin and cork, and they weren’t any less beautiful than hand-crafted leather. I also had no idea how loved his designs were by some of my favorite movie stars: Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Bette Davis, Lauren Bacall… to name a few.


It’s wonderful to live in a place where these things are in my backyard, so to speak. I can experience everything firsthand that otherwise I would only learn about through slideshows, sitting in a cold class room. I know it’s not possible to always have this available for teaching methods, but it helps an awful lot and is so much more intriguing. There should definitely be more field trips in college, or at least more efforts to make class a little more interesting. I feel very lucky to have these things available to me.

The following weekend we had another trip to a small town near Florence called Fiesole. The day consisted of another lovely hike up a hill (of death) to a gorgeous view of Florence. Unfortunately it was a bit foggy so my photos didn’t turn out as nice. But that really was the least of my worries.

A few days prior I found out that the person subleasing my apartment in Austin was moving out. I had two options: find someone new to move in or pay the rent myself and say “adios!” to traveling and return home early. I guess you can imagine this was my worst nightmare coming true. When I got the email I couldn’t help crying and remembering those horrible days at work last semester, where I would push through the stress and hatred of my job because I knew the more money I earned, the more I could travel. I basically had control of making my dreams come true… it just depended on how much I was willing to put myself through. And I did it. Three jobs added up to 40+ hours a week on top of 12 hours of classes and an internship. I really don’t know how I managed – and here I was suddenly feeling like all of that was for nothing. Just when everything was starting to feel comfortable, Austin came back to haunt me.

I’ve found that abroad, even more so than in the states, I’m constantly trying to figure out the lessons I’m learning from situations such as this or what God is trying to show me. It was hard to come to any nice conclusion; I was mad as hell. I would never do that to someone, especially if I knew they worked so hard to travel and that was all the money they had. But I guess you can’t expect people to be reliable or treat you how you would treat them - at least not in this day and age.

Standing there at the top of the hill in Fiesole, I felt my worries slip away for a bit. Here I was in a place I thought I’d only ever dream of seeing and I was letting something take away my enjoyment. Something that, as hard as it was for me to admit it (I tend to be the queen of worrying), I knew would ultimately work out.

I walked over to a bench and saw the phrase “Smile Like You Mean It” written in white marker on the top. This was exactly what I needed to see and it cheered me up for several reasons. It reminded me of my favorite band The Killers, who have a song of the same name. Second to praying, their music is what I always turn to when I need cheering up, hope, or a new way to think of things. They are like my soul mate in music form – yep, I’m pretty obsessed!


Not only did I think of The Killers and all their sweet music remedies, but also of my brother Chad (who is as equally obsessed with them as I am). It made me think of all the phone calls and conversations my twin and I shared when we had problems to discuss. I knew if Chad was there he’d first give me a hard time, make fun of my problems, then tell me to listen to The Killers and move on. Because everything would work out. Everything would be alright.

For the rest of my time in Fiesole I decided I would march forward and enjoy myself. I had a Roman theater to see, Etruscan ruins to climb, and a delicious Tuscan meal to eat. And I would do it all smiling like I meant it. J


Here are more pictures from my time in Florence, Fiesole, and at Carnevale!

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