Building a Smile: Carnevale, Fiesole, & Fashion

Besides my brief encounters with locals at stores and cafes, I haven’t had much interaction with Italian culture. I am living here, but I’ve been waiting for that moment when I feel out of place or witness something so unusual that it makes me really stop and take notice of the cultural differences. I finally felt like I experienced that when I attended Carnevale in Viareggio, Italy on Sunday (Feb. 12th).

Carnevale is basically the Italian version of Halloween mixed with a Mardi Gras-like parade. Everyone is dressed in elaborate costumes, some of which have themes. Others just wear intricately decorated, colorful masks – which is what I did. I was so stoked to wear my silver sequin mask, unfortunately it wasn’t very flattering. Haha

Before the carnival parade began I spent a little time wandering the beach nearby. It was funny seeing everyone running around the sand wearing their masks. It was also odd wearing full winter attire on the beach. I realized I had never been on a beach in cold weather, nor had I ever been to a beach that wasn’t on the Gulf of Mexico. Viareggio beaches are beautiful: Clean water and sand with a backdrop of snow covered mountains. But I hear they’re nothing compared to Sicily or the Amalfi Coast. Hopefully, when it warms up, I’ll see for myself!


The parade was like none other I had experienced before. All of the floats were gigantic artistic masterpieces portraying a political message – almost all dealing with former Prime Minister Berlusconi. Some were pretty provocative, leading me to wonder if anything like that would be allowed in a states parade. Probably not…along with the masses of tweens and teens drinking and smoking. I couldn’t get past how weird that was. Nevertheless, when Italians come together to celebrate, they really know how to enjoy themselves and have a good time!


The following week was fabulous and fashion-filled. One day for my History of Italian Fashion class we visited the Scuola del Cuoio, not too far from my apartment and the Santa Croce church. It’s a school and workshop where some of Florence’s finest leather goods are made by hand. One of the artisans demonstrated an old renaissance technique of applying gold leaf texture to a piece of leather. The design was intricate and unique to the artist, making every piece special. People such as Princess Diana, Audrey Hepburn, and Gwyneth Paltrow owned leather goods from the school. It was surreal thinking they had walked the same hall that I was standing in.


For the next class meeting we had another field trip, this time to Pitti Palace, which houses multiple museums. It’s always such a task getting to class in the morning, especially when we have an onsite meeting. And of course the days I’m running late is when I have to climb huge hills and navigate confusing streets. Once I reach the destination though, panting and perspiring, it’s always so worth it.

Pitti Palace came into view as I sped-walk past shops and cafes that lined the street. It was so massive; I couldn’t believe I hadn’t spotted it from afar – or that I hadn’t been to this place yet! My ultimate idea of Europe is enchanting palaces and castles, and finally I was standing at the entrance of one! The palace was bought by the Medici family in the 1500s and was the main residence for the ruling family, as well as the place of reception for other world rulers visiting Florence.

We visited the costume gallery which includes in its impressive collection the garments of a few members of the Medici family. And not just any garments – the clothes they were buried in. So someone had a lot of work collecting the shreds and pieces of fabric that remained. I thought it was weird that they dug up the bodies of some of Italy’s most famous historic figures and took their clothes. But it was pretty amazing seeing it in person. Other costumes on display were dresses ranging from the 1700s to modern day – including some of Italy’s best known designers who made dresses inspired by the ancient costumes.

In my Fashion Marketing & Merchandising class we also had a field trip to the Salvatore Ferragamo museum. I was really excited to learn more about a designer I was only familiar with by looking at ads in Vogue. The museum housed tons of original designs by Ferragamo, including the clear wedge shoe that won him the Neiman Marcus Fashion Award. In just this one visit my love for fashion and admiration of designers grew – in leaps! Ferragamo began making shoes at age nine, and nothing ever set him back from his dream. Even during financial crisis when supplies were limited he used his creativity to create from what was available. We saw some of these products of creativity in the form of shoes made from fish skin and cork, and they weren’t any less beautiful than hand-crafted leather. I also had no idea how loved his designs were by some of my favorite movie stars: Audrey Hepburn, Marilyn Monroe, Bette Davis, Lauren Bacall… to name a few.


It’s wonderful to live in a place where these things are in my backyard, so to speak. I can experience everything firsthand that otherwise I would only learn about through slideshows, sitting in a cold class room. I know it’s not possible to always have this available for teaching methods, but it helps an awful lot and is so much more intriguing. There should definitely be more field trips in college, or at least more efforts to make class a little more interesting. I feel very lucky to have these things available to me.

The following weekend we had another trip to a small town near Florence called Fiesole. The day consisted of another lovely hike up a hill (of death) to a gorgeous view of Florence. Unfortunately it was a bit foggy so my photos didn’t turn out as nice. But that really was the least of my worries.

A few days prior I found out that the person subleasing my apartment in Austin was moving out. I had two options: find someone new to move in or pay the rent myself and say “adios!” to traveling and return home early. I guess you can imagine this was my worst nightmare coming true. When I got the email I couldn’t help crying and remembering those horrible days at work last semester, where I would push through the stress and hatred of my job because I knew the more money I earned, the more I could travel. I basically had control of making my dreams come true… it just depended on how much I was willing to put myself through. And I did it. Three jobs added up to 40+ hours a week on top of 12 hours of classes and an internship. I really don’t know how I managed – and here I was suddenly feeling like all of that was for nothing. Just when everything was starting to feel comfortable, Austin came back to haunt me.

I’ve found that abroad, even more so than in the states, I’m constantly trying to figure out the lessons I’m learning from situations such as this or what God is trying to show me. It was hard to come to any nice conclusion; I was mad as hell. I would never do that to someone, especially if I knew they worked so hard to travel and that was all the money they had. But I guess you can’t expect people to be reliable or treat you how you would treat them - at least not in this day and age.

Standing there at the top of the hill in Fiesole, I felt my worries slip away for a bit. Here I was in a place I thought I’d only ever dream of seeing and I was letting something take away my enjoyment. Something that, as hard as it was for me to admit it (I tend to be the queen of worrying), I knew would ultimately work out.

I walked over to a bench and saw the phrase “Smile Like You Mean It” written in white marker on the top. This was exactly what I needed to see and it cheered me up for several reasons. It reminded me of my favorite band The Killers, who have a song of the same name. Second to praying, their music is what I always turn to when I need cheering up, hope, or a new way to think of things. They are like my soul mate in music form – yep, I’m pretty obsessed!


Not only did I think of The Killers and all their sweet music remedies, but also of my brother Chad (who is as equally obsessed with them as I am). It made me think of all the phone calls and conversations my twin and I shared when we had problems to discuss. I knew if Chad was there he’d first give me a hard time, make fun of my problems, then tell me to listen to The Killers and move on. Because everything would work out. Everything would be alright.

For the rest of my time in Fiesole I decided I would march forward and enjoy myself. I had a Roman theater to see, Etruscan ruins to climb, and a delicious Tuscan meal to eat. And I would do it all smiling like I meant it. J


Here are more pictures from my time in Florence, Fiesole, and at Carnevale!

Finally, Florence!

It’s been little over a week in Florence and it already feels like home. Probably because that week feels more like a month when I think about everything that’s happened. I’m already settled in my apartment, going to classes and know my way around almost good enough to not need a map. I can just leave my apartment, put on my headphones, walk, breathe, and take it all in.

The bus ride from Siena to Florence was all too familiar. A lot of this trip has been constant traveling, stopping, experiencing an amazing place I could never dream up, then on to the next one. And I love it. I can picture this pattern of non-stop travel and experience being something like my future life. I mean, I’d love to find that one place that tears me apart to leave, but I think that’s a ways away. I’ve got so much more world to see!

As we arrived in Florence, there was one view I can’t get out of my head. The bus rounded a corner and from behind the vanishing trees the city came into view. It looked so perfect, like a painting, and as cheesy as it sounds it literally brought tears to my eyes. It seemed like everyone on the bus was as transfixed as I was with their gasps of disbelief that such beauty existed in the world.

Once in the city, we were reunited with our luggage, grouped together with our roommates and sent off in cabs to find our new home for the next three months. I wasn’t too excited that my apartment was a 25 minute walk from school, but had hopes we’d be in a cool part of town. After driving through sketchy, graffiti-filled, dark, narrow streets that looked like the set of "Escape from New York", the cab came to a stop. “Via dei Macci, settanta” the driver said as he put our luggage out in the street and drove away. We had a few laughs at the sight of one of our roommates trying to get her bags out of the street as she was holding up traffic. All four of us were thinking the same thing about the neighborhood. Oh. My. God. What is this?! We rang the doorbell labeled “Zuccherini” just as instructed. No answer. A few more times, still no answer. Then, like much needed Italian cliché comic relief, our landlord Simonetta zooms by on a vespa yelling “Ciao!” She parked and ran to let us in. The front door opened to a winding staircase and I was just beginning to lift my suitcase onto the first step when I heard my roommates yell, “Oh my god you guys, drop your stuff and come see this now!” I ran upstairs and through the front door that branches off into two gorgeous apartments. Simonetta had just finished redoing the entire place and we were the first ones to live there. Andrea and I had our own living room, bedroom, kitchen and bathroom, all furnished from IKEA, and so did Zoe and Caroline. It didn’t have that Italy feel that I was expecting – like antique furniture, super small and cozy – but I couldn’t complain. We really lucked out.


Though we had a super nice apartment, there was one huge problem. The lock on our front door was faulty and until Simonetta fixed it, it took us about an hour and a half to get in each time we tried. But it did give us the opportunity to meet our neighbors who saw us struggling and tried to help out. Three guys who go to Texas Christian University live across from us and we often invite them over and go out!

It was so nice to unpack, get settled and not have to live out of suitcases anymore. The same night we had a welcome dinner at another gorgeous restaurant called Palazzo Borghese.  To get to the eating area, you have to pass through several rooms all decorated in Victorian or French style – I’m not sure which but it was beautiful. And the dining area was definitely a sight – chandeliers, frescoes on the ceiling, and the same antique furnishing and decorations. Needless to say I felt underdressed. I think a princess cut ball gown would have been appropriate!


We had one free day in Florence before our classes began and I spent it going on an art history tour of the city. We saw Michelangelo’s David (the replica, the real one is inside a museum here) along with many others in the Piazza della Signoria. We went inside the Duomo and it was just as beautiful as the one in Siena. I look forward to attending church service there this semester.

While on the tour we experienced the beginning of the ridiculously cold weather Florence would have for the week. So far it’s been in the 20s every day, with snow fall every now and then. Apparently it hasn’t been this cold here since the ‘80s. I had to give in and purchase some warmer clothes at H&M because I definitely wasn’t prepared. There’ve been days when I feel like I’d be willing to give anything for a hot Texas summer day. And I often feel compelled to sleep in my wool pea coat under my covers at night. Okay, you get it. It’s so freaking cold!


My classes are going great and I really enjoy all of them. I’m taking Fashion Marketing & Merchandising, History of Italian Fashion, History of Italian Cinema, and Italian Language. I came into this thinking study abroad classes would be a breeze, but it seems like I have a lot of work ahead of me. Lots of writing – each class I have to do a 3500 word research paper on top of other tests, papers and homework assignments. I am also volunteering with a local English speaking community newspaper – The Florence Newspaper. I’m very excited about writing for them because I plan to focus a lot on the fashion community of Florence and Italy. The editor (who is also my cinema professor) is currently trying to get me a press pass for Milan Fashion Week. Crossing my fingers it all works out! This was supposed to be a take-it-easy semester, but somehow I always manage to put a lot on my plate. I guess it’s just what I’m subconsciously comfortable with and I secretly can’t function without stress?

My first week in Florence I also experienced my first soccer match. Soccer is BIG in Italy. The game was Fiorentina vs. Udinese, and Florence ended with the win. I didn’t stay the entire game because by the second half I couldn’t feel my toes, hands or face and felt like death was upon me. It was miserably cold. But I do look forward to going to another match once it warms up a bit. Being around Italians at a soccer match is hilarious. There was one older guy behind me that was so into it he kept patting me on the back and shouting words of excitement to me in Italian. All I could do was smile and throw my hands in the air because I had no idea what he was saying. Next match I’m going to come prepared with my own phrases to shout in an opera-esque Italian accent.

When I’m not briskly walk-running to class, I have had some time to observe Italian society and note some differences between American and Italian culture. Just as Americans, Italians love their pets. There seems to be a dog obsession here. Everywhere you go outside (and sometimes in stores) you see people walking their cute little dogs – always the most unique breeds – dressed in sweaters and other winter attire. And dogs have the freedom to poop wherever they please. The sidewalks here have dog poop all over them! So avoiding stepping in it is something else I can add to my paranoia, along with being pooped on by a pigeon. Thankfully I have avoided both so far, but some of my friends haven’t been so lucky. I have a feeling my time will come...


Just as in London, the people here dress so nice. For women, fur is a major trend. Men, where do I begin? Italian men care so much about their appearance. Not all, but most of them wax their eyebrows, have carefully sculpted hairstyles, and my professor said it is popular for them to also wax their chests and get pedicures/manicures. They all look so perfect; it’s a bit too much. A lot of them seem to walk with this air that they know they look perfect, too. Again, some, not all. There’s quite a bit of average Joes, too.

Going out in Florence has been quite an experience as well. American music is pretty popular here and the clubs and pubs have their share of creeps just as in the states. The Italian men here are really aggressive in their female pursuits. (I actually had a conversation with a guy who agreed with me on this observation) I don’t know if it’s just a typical guy-in-a-club method or the way Italians are towards American girls. Conversations are brief and within minutes they’re dishing out compliments or trying to hold your hand and kiss you. It’s really odd getting that much attention. Even walking down the street you’ll get at least one “Ciao bella!” a day. We had an Italian police officer talk to us during our orientation about Italy’s number one sport – women. He also jokingly said the attention may get annoying while we’re here, but we’ll miss it once we go back to the states. I can see that being true, haha.

The language barrier definitely doesn’t help much. I always feel like I’m scrambling to remember conversational phrases from class when I’m out mingling with Italian dudes, just to prolong the conversation and avoid any awkwardness or unwanted aggressiveness. But, I guess if I were to ever meet a nice, decent guy, the language barrier could be a good thing. Everything you’d say to one another would have to be straight to the point because you don’t know enough of each other’s language to beat around the bush and avoid sincere conversation. I don’t know. I also just honestly LOVE practicing Italian with native speakers! Haha

Being settled in Florence, it’s getting easy to fall into a safe routine and not want to go out. I’ve been really tired lately and with the extreme cold weather it’s been so easy to just want to lie around the apartment. But I can’t let this happen! I have three more months to explore Europe and if I’m not taking advantage of it that time will surely fly by.


Here are more pictures from my time (so far) in Florence!